Climb to Nevada Alpamayo (5947 m)
(Optional Quitaraju or Artesonraju)
Acclimatization IN Nevado Pisco
15 D/14 N

Description:

This is an expedition to climb the mountain is considered the most beautiful in the world considered in 1965, in a competition held in Berlin, with a pre-acclimatization in the snowy Pisco, since he is also a beautiful summit from which you can see the mountains most important of the White Mountains, Alpamayo mountain is a technique because it has a wall 500 meters high with an inclination of 65 degrees slope, their access to three camps are conducted prior to 1 from the field where he has a spectacular view of the wall of the mountain.


Itineraries

Difficulty: DIFFICULT
  
DAY 1: Pick up airport and transfer to hotel in Lima.

DAY 2: Departure of Lima Huaraz wings 13:00 hours, arriving in Lima at 21:00 hours, transfer to Hotel

DAY 3: After desayudo Huaraz left by bus early heading north to where Cebollapampa begin the ascent to Camp 1, maximum field of rapprochement to attack the summit the next day.

DAY 4: begin the ascent before dawn, walked across the moraine until the beginning of snow where we PC and start the ascent to the summit. Arriving at the summit before noon, the view from here is very beautiful, because there are mountains of the most important white mountain range, as well as the Nevado Huascaran our next goal. 1 return to the camp where a delicious dinner and take a deserved rest.

DAY 5: After a repairman desayudo unmount the camp and return to Huaraz.

DAY 6: Rest day.

DAY 7:
(M. Llamacorral 3900)
Out of Huaraz at 7:30 a.m. in particular car for the people of Cashapampa located in the northern part of the Cordillera Blanca passing through the cities of Carhuaz, Yung and taking the diversion in the town of Caraz to Cashapampa to 2800 m. Tour that will take us 3 hours in Cashapampa was once pauses to load the equipment in the

donkeys and then start walking in an easterly direction to internally within the gorge of Santa Cruz and for Llamacorral where to place our first camp 3400m

Duration of the walk: (3 to 4 hours)
Difficulty: Easy

DAY 8:
(4100 m. Field basis)
Breakfast at 9:00 a.m. Llamacorral and at the beginning of the walk at 8:00 am, entering further into the gaps Ichiqcocha and Jatuncocha, with a very nice view of Taulliraju to 5850 m. and then diverted northward into the ravine of Arhuaycocha where we can appreciate the Alpamayo, Quitaraju to 6036 m. and Jancorurish to 5578 m. to situate at basecamp of Alpamayo almost at the bottom of the ravine of Arhuaycocha.
Duration and the walk (6 to 7 pm)
Difficulty easy

DAY 9:
Field moraines (5800 metres) and Acclimation
Breakfast: 6:00 a.m. and preparations to move towards the field moraines, where it is not possible to access parteadores donkeys and led the technical team for everyone to take your basic materials such as sleeping bag, mattress, cameras, a bottle of water and appropriate clothing, stretch very long but not steep is the journey of basecamp to the field moraines and lasts approximately 4horas. Installation of the camp to take then a picnic and bring with us our technical team and head of cabbage to Alpamayo through a series of cracks within the glacier, slice very exciting and fun. Once the cabbage can appreciate the spectacular west face of Alpamayo where are all tracks and the most famous climb up the Ferrari
Length of Walk: 4 HOURS
Duration of Acclimation: From 4 to 5 hours
Total length: 9 hours
Difficulty: Difficult with stretches of climbing

DAY 10:
Court 1 (Col) 5.500 M.
Breakfast at 7:00 am, at 8:00 start climbing towards the camp of 1 arriving at glacial Alpamayo, where we use our technical team and behaves in the backpack as the basic equipment needed are sleeping bags, mattresses, bottles Water and cameras, carriers were ordered to carry the bodies, food and cooking, here there are stretches of escalation that are already known after the recognition of the area the day before, technical sections are the same but with a little weight, this tranche is always tying, given the conditions of the glacier, cracks and stretches up to 80 ° almost vertical, the guide is responsible for fixing ropes for customers and leave everything in good condition so you do not have any problems, slice is not so long until you get to Camp 1 where overnight stays really impressive in view of Alpamayo and Quitaraju.
Running time: 5 hours
Difficulty: Walk in tranches with glacier climbing

 
DAY 11:
Summit Alpamayo to 5947 m.
This day the guide depending on weather conditions and the amount of groups present in the country 1 will take the decision to the time of departure by reference: Breakfast: 4:00 a.m. and beginning at 4:30. It was heading toward the exit route Ferrari in the west face of Alpamayo. It will take approximately an hour and a half until the rimaya where we will start the ascent to the same wall of 400 m. height 60 verticalidad average grades, must be equipped so that you only set their ideas in climbing after the summit depending on the conditions will remain for a few moments later, continuing the decline which will install the guide for the Rapel safe return to Camp 1
Duration: 10 hours
Difficulty: Wall of 400 m. 60 ° average of verticality

DAY 12:
Jatuncocha, 3.800 M.
After the summit beginning the next day something more relaxed t breakfast will be held at 8:00 am through the same places where we got the descent by the glacial until basecamp to come back to the ravine of Santa Cruz headed to Jatuncocha.

DAY 13:
Huaraz, 3092 m.
Breakfast: 8:00 a.m. begins at 9:00 and return to Cashapampa. Where is the summit to celebrate the most beautiful mountain in the world with the whole team that participated in the expedition and tasting the rich Pachamanca, typical food of the pachamama, and then take our car for Huaraz.

DAY 14: Return Huaraz - Lima

DAY 15: Lima - airport

Huaraz Tours:

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Climbing in Alpamayo | Climbing Nevado Huazcaran